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[{"key": "dc.contributor.advisor", "value": "Pirinen, Hanna", "language": "", "element": "contributor", "qualifier": "advisor", "schema": "dc"}, {"key": "dc.contributor.author", "value": "Jones, Maarit", "language": "", "element": "contributor", "qualifier": "author", "schema": "dc"}, {"key": "dc.date.accessioned", "value": "2021-05-20T07:22:09Z", "language": null, "element": "date", "qualifier": "accessioned", "schema": "dc"}, {"key": "dc.date.available", "value": "2021-05-20T07:22:09Z", "language": null, "element": "date", "qualifier": "available", "schema": "dc"}, {"key": "dc.date.issued", "value": "2021", "language": "", "element": "date", "qualifier": "issued", "schema": "dc"}, {"key": "dc.identifier.uri", "value": "https://jyx.jyu.fi/handle/123456789/75790", "language": null, "element": "identifier", "qualifier": "uri", "schema": "dc"}, {"key": "dc.description.abstract", "value": "Tutkimuskohteena on suomenruotsalaisen kuvataiteilija Ellen Thesleffin (1869\u20131954) pukeutuminen, jota on aiemmin tulkittu dandy-habituksen ilmaisustrategiana ja h\u00e4nen maskuliinista pukeutumistaan on verrattu naisten vallitsevaan muotipukeutumiseen. Tutkimuksen tavoitteena on tulkita puku- ja roolileikkej\u00e4 naisten vaihtoehtoisen pukeutumisen n\u00e4k\u00f6kulmasta. Tutkimuksessa perehdyt\u00e4\u00e4n pukeutumisen historian tutkimuksen ohjaamana 1800-luvun pukeutumistyyleihin ja naisten pukeutumiseen vaikuttaneisiin sosiaalisiin ilmi\u00f6ihin.\nOpinn\u00e4ytety\u00f6 k\u00e4sittelee kosmopoliitin kuvataiteilijan Ellen Thesleffin pukeutumista 1890-luvun vaihteessa otetussa valokuvasarjassa. Valokuvissa taiteilija on pukeutunut miesm\u00e4isiin asuihin ja asusteisiin, ja asettunut kuvattavaksi omaper\u00e4isesti poseeraten. Valokuvat on otettu aikakautena, jota luonnehtivat vuosisadan lopun fin de si\u00e8cle -aate- ja kulttuurihistoriallinen ilmapiiri ja esteettisfilosofinen symbolismi. \nTutkimuksen l\u00e4hdeaineiston muodostavat nelj\u00e4 Ellen Thesleffin nuoruudenaikaista omavalokuvaa ja kolme muuta valokuvaa. Tutkielman teoreettisena viitekehyksen\u00e4 k\u00e4ytettiin sukupuolen performatiivista olemusta erittelev\u00e4\u00e4 n\u00e4k\u00f6kulmaa, jossa Thesleff n\u00e4hd\u00e4\u00e4n omien pyrkimystens\u00e4 muovaamana persoonallisuutena. Tutkimusmenetelmin\u00e4 k\u00e4ytettiin laadullista visuaalisen kulttuurin tutkimusmenetelm\u00e4\u00e4, joka operoi pukeutumisen historian tutkimuksen lis\u00e4ksi uuden taide- ja mikrohistorian tutkimusaloilla. Mikrohistoriallisen tutkimusperinteen mukaisesti valokuvat kontekstoitiin laajasti.\nTutkielmassa tarkastelun kohteena on kaksi toisistaan erillist\u00e4, mutta samaan aikaan ilmennytt\u00e4 tyyli\u00e4. Perinteisempi, runsaasti koristeltu muotipuku on l\u00e4ht\u00f6isin Ranskasta ja toinen miesten vaatetuksesta vaikutteita saanut vaihtoehtoinen pukeutumistapa on kehittynyt Englannissa. N\u00e4ihin muotisuuntauksiin perehdyttiin perinteisen kulttuurihistoriallisen tyylihistoriak\u00e4sitteen ohjaamana. Thesleffin pukuja tarkasteltiin johtolankamenetelm\u00e4\u00e4 (Ginzburg, 1996) ja l\u00e4hilukumenetelmi\u00e4 (Palin, 2004) hy\u00f6dynt\u00e4en. Tutkimuksen perusteella p\u00e4\u00e4teltiin, ett\u00e4 Ellen Thesleffin maskuliiniset vaatteet ja pukeutuminen ilment\u00e4v\u00e4t kansainv\u00e4list\u00e4 vaihtoehtoista tapaa pukeutua- ja esiinty\u00e4 itsellisen\u00e4 naisena 1890-luvun vaihteessa. Maskuliinisia asusteita suosiva pukeutuminen liittyi yhteiskunnalliseen murrokseen ja se omaksuttiin ty\u00f6t\u00e4 tekevien naisten keskuudessa samanaikaisesti Yhdysvalloissa ja Euroopassa.", "language": "fi", "element": "description", "qualifier": "abstract", "schema": "dc"}, {"key": "dc.description.provenance", "value": "Submitted by Paivi Vuorio (paelvuor@jyu.fi) on 2021-05-20T07:22:09Z\nNo. of bitstreams: 0", "language": "en", "element": "description", "qualifier": "provenance", "schema": "dc"}, {"key": "dc.description.provenance", "value": "Made available in DSpace on 2021-05-20T07:22:09Z (GMT). No. of bitstreams: 0\n Previous issue date: 2021", "language": "en", "element": "description", "qualifier": "provenance", "schema": "dc"}, {"key": "dc.format.extent", "value": "34", "language": "", "element": "format", "qualifier": "extent", "schema": "dc"}, {"key": "dc.language.iso", "value": "fin", "language": null, "element": "language", "qualifier": "iso", "schema": "dc"}, {"key": "dc.rights", "value": "In Copyright", "language": "en", "element": "rights", "qualifier": null, "schema": "dc"}, {"key": "dc.subject.other", "value": "omavalokuvat", "language": "", "element": "subject", "qualifier": "other", "schema": "dc"}, {"key": "dc.subject.other", "value": "naistaiteilija", "language": "", "element": "subject", "qualifier": "other", "schema": "dc"}, {"key": "dc.subject.other", "value": "vaihtoehtoinen pukeutuminen", "language": "", "element": "subject", "qualifier": "other", "schema": "dc"}, {"key": "dc.subject.other", "value": "naisdandy", "language": "", "element": "subject", "qualifier": "other", "schema": "dc"}, {"key": "dc.title", "value": "Ellen Thesleffin omavalokuvat : pukeutuminen taiteilijan itseilmaisuna ja fin de si\u00e8cle -aikakauden kuvastajana", "language": "", "element": "title", "qualifier": null, "schema": "dc"}, {"key": "dc.type", "value": "bachelor thesis", "language": null, "element": "type", "qualifier": null, "schema": "dc"}, {"key": "dc.identifier.urn", "value": "URN:NBN:fi:jyu-202105203052", "language": "", "element": "identifier", "qualifier": "urn", "schema": "dc"}, {"key": "dc.type.ontasot", "value": "Bachelor's thesis", "language": "en", "element": "type", "qualifier": "ontasot", "schema": "dc"}, {"key": "dc.type.ontasot", "value": "Kandidaatinty\u00f6", "language": "fi", "element": "type", "qualifier": "ontasot", "schema": "dc"}, {"key": "dc.contributor.faculty", "value": "Humanistis-yhteiskuntatieteellinen tiedekunta", "language": "fi", "element": "contributor", "qualifier": "faculty", "schema": "dc"}, {"key": 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